Bangkok

After arriving in Bangkok, X in particular was very happy to see L and gave him a big hug.  X and L reacquainted themselves over a swim while I relaxed by the pool.  Then we went for a wander around the neighbourhood.  We were staying at the Somerset Park Suanplu, the very same place we started out staying when X was born in 2014.  The surrounding area did not seem to have changed very much and the extensive renovations that Somerset Park had undergone were reasonable but a bit underwhelming.  Nonetheless, it was nice to reminisce about the things and places that brought back memories while walking down the street, including the mundanities such as the laundry place we frequented, the café we visited regularly and the street vendors and massage parlours (foot massages, people, foot massages!) we became fond of during those five weeks in August three years ago.

Pool fun

We had a quiet afternoon followed by dinner at Naga, the place we most often ate when we were here in 2014.  While the staff seemed to have changed from our last experience, the food, drink and service remained impressive.  The owner, Sanit, has eclectic taste, so the restaurant is decked out in a mixture of themes, including French period furniture, postmodern art and, an addition since our last visit, a large photo portrait of a (much younger) Sanit.  The decoration just reflects the international interests of Sanit and the clientele.

Photo of us in the lift ceiling mirror at Siam Paragon
shopping centre

Lugging X around in his backpack

Us at Naga

We enjoy Naga every time.

On Sunday, after sharing a king bed, but with Xavier sleeping across the bed rather than up and down it, we decided to go to Dinosaur Planet in Sukhumvit.  Linton had found a bunch of things to do in Bangkok with kids, and this was one of the more highly rated options.  For a few weeks, we had been familiarising Xavier with the fact we were about to go on a long holiday, mentioning some of the things we expected to do with him while we were away.  A measure of the impression made by a suggested visit to Dinosaur Planet on Xavier was that, as we were coming in to land at Bangkok, I asked him what he could see out the window.  His response:  dinosaurs!  Needless to say, he was very excited at the prospect of seeing the brachiosaurus and tyrannosaurus rex (although we were worried he thought they would actually be alive).

We had planned a coffee stop at Starbucks but finding the line long and seats full, headed a bit further towards our intended BTS station and opted for a newly opened Dean & Deluca. Babyccinos are unknown outside Australia I think, so X enjoyed a smoothie while we caffeinated (me having a false start as my first flat white arrived barely lukewarm).  Travelling on the supremely air-conditioned and quite busy BTS, we arrived at Phrom Phong station and began to realise the huge boon of having a little child carrying backpack to transport X around when he refused to walk (very regularly!).

As we arrived at Dinosaur Planet and Xavier saw one of the very large (presumably life-sized) dinosaur figures moving its long neck and mouth around robotically, he freaked out a bit!  He rapidly went off the idea of getting up close and personal with such huge creatures, even with his two dads there for moral support!  We persevered anyway (the entry fee having been paid already) and thought we would check out one of the 3D experiences.  Among the early arrivals at the park, we sat down just the three of us, in a quite open auditorium and were assaulted with digital images of dinosaurs, of all shapes, sizes and habitats, seemingly materialising from thin air onto a huge screen, making all sorts of inhuman snorts, squawks and calls.  The impression created was that the creatures were interacting with us, checking us out in a multitude of ways and then flying/running away again.  Poor old X was totally intimidated, so we were pleased when the one or two minute experience ended.

We headed outside to a small area where kids were able to ride automated dinosaur models (mostly triceratops') around a short course/track.  After some convincing, Xavier took his place on one with Linton assisting him to (a) stay on the animal’s back and (b) limit the freak out quotient.  The models moved quite slowly and roughly, so X took a bit to get used to it, but was wishing for a longer ride once everything came to an end.  There were a few other attractions at Dinosaur Planet, including the faux dinosaur attack experience that led to X asking for days afterwards why there had been an emergency, but all told, it appeared to us the whole place existed to ensure its property-speculator owners were able to appease Bangkok city authorities, who would not have been pleased with a vacant block sitting unused in such a valuable and prestigious neighbourhood.   We were there no more than two hours in total.

X on triceratops

We spent a bit of time in a little park, full of expats and their offspring, while X played on the adventure playground and we plotted our next move.  Among the attractions Linton had found while researching was Snowtown, at a shopping centre not far away, which comprised a little village of shops and activities, all with a snow theme.  It sounded pretty cool (no pun intended!), so we headed two stops down the BTS to Ekkamai station to check it out.  This shopping centre (Gateway Ekkamai) was located in an apparently Japanese expat neighbourhood so we unsurprisingly found ourselves surrounded by Japanese restaurants, language schools and other reminders of everyday life in Tokyo and beyond.  Searching out Snowtown (top floor), we were a bit floored by the price of admission (around $30 each, plus sock hire (no, we weren’t wearing any!)), including the fact they offered special (read ‘inflated’) “international pricing” options for us.  We plumped for a look around the games arcade next door, where Xavier drove a bus and played shooting games with water jets (strange combination, electronic equipment and high powered water sprayers!), among others.

A bit hungry by now, we found ourselves a Japanese place for lunch where everything was 88 baht (about $3.50).  It was unremarkable food but a nice easy option for a few minutes’ rest and time to reflect on the morning.  Afterwards, we took the BTS back to Sala Daeng (two stops from the interchange at Siam station) and walked back to Somerset, X happily singing away to himself in the backpack and Linton straining under the weight and heat.  Around 11,000 steps after setting out, we were back!

Burgers for dinner (Naga closed – sad face!) at Arno’s, just up the road from our hotel.  No banana pancakes as promised to X, as the pancake lady was not working today.

Silly pose at dinner at Arno's

Monday we had decided we would take X to Kidzania at Siam Paragon.  Again, Linton had spotted this as a major kids attraction in Bangkok.  It was essentially a little town where everything was scaled down to child-size and kids tried their hand at all sorts of professions for a while.  There was a miniature 737 poking out the front of the place, so despite not taking X inside (L did so), I can see how it would be a nifty experience.  Unfortunately, X was a little too young to get the most out of it.  He seemed to be bothered by everything being suddenly smaller than usual, and the large school groups of primary school students roaming around causing some havoc.  He was sufficiently distraught to ask Linton whether he could go to bed (clearly a comforting place – a win for the parents!), so the two of them stayed only about an hour.  Just as I was heading off to heck out the next shopping centre, L called to say they were done.  Afterwards, we spent a bit of time perusing the international supermarket (always fun in my mind) before heading back to the hotel.  I carried X in the backpack this time.  It’s superb (definitely more ergonomic than having 15kgs sitting on your shoulders bouncing around) but definitely gets your heart rate up.

Pretty impresed with first happy meal

Life-changing and momentous firsy happy meal (MISTAKE?)

After a short rest, we headed out to see whether X would happily watch his iPad while Dad and Dada procured themselves a foot massage.  After being greeted warmly and Indra Spa in Suanplu, we all sat down to enjoy an hour of relaxation and solitude.  It went off without a hitch and X proved quite the creature of intrigue to the Thai staff at the spa.  They were interested in what he was watching and, I think, the fact he was quite content to sit quietly for an hour while we had some time out.

Thankfully, Naga was open Monday night so we popped in for dinner.  We were reunited with Sanit, and briefly with one of the waiting staff who had served us many times in 2014 (Sarina) and again enjoyed a delectable meal with side of cocktails and beer!

We had arranged to meet up with X’s surrogate on Tuesday (yes, at Naga). Given her lack of English skills, I’d organised an interpreter to assist.  Kats had also helped us during the bureaucracy-heavy time we were arranging X’s exit from Thailand in August 2014.  Although there were a few small hiccups, everyone arrived within 15 minutes of the agreed time and we shared a lovely lunch, at which we heard that the surrogate (Duean) had recently had another baby to Chinese parents and had travelled to China to give birth.  Duean’s 8 year old son came along as well.  All told, while there was the prospect of substantial awkwardness, we actually had a good chat about what X liked, changes to surrogacy laws in Thailand and other stuff.  The translator helped relieve some of the gaps in conversation by having her own chat with either L and I or Duean and her son.  Duean offered (again) to have another baby for us if we were interested (a definite no, with thanks for her kindness) and we agreed to stay in touch, as we had been doing over the last three years.  It was nice for X to meet her (without a detailed explanation of who she was at this stage) which should hopefully reduce any anxiety about a future rendezvous.

X and Duean